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Travel
Wheeling Around San Francisco
by Candy B. Harrington
From New Mobility, May 2000
©2000 Candy B. Harrington
San Francisco is well known for its hilly terrain, and let's face it, hills aren't exactly a wheeler's best friend. So, it should follow that the city by the bay isn't really a wheelchair-friendly tourist destination, right? Well, not exactly, at least according to Bonnie Lewkowicz, founder of Access Northern California. Bonnie should know, as she spent the last 3 years doing research and gathering information for Access Northern California's recently-released, "Access 2000 San Francisco". In fact, you could say that Bonnie wrote the book on access in San Francisco. Considering Bonnie's expertise, I figured the best way to get the insider's scoop on access to the cool tourist spots was to hit the streets with Bonnie; so, that's exactly what I did.
First, a little primer about getting around in San Francisco. No matter how convenient it may seem, don't even consider driving. It's not that driving is difficult, it's just that parking is nonexistent (even with a placard). Accessible public transportation is available to most of the tourist areas, and it's really the most convenient way to get around. If you must drive to San Francisco, park your car at your hotel and use public transportation. Be forewarned though, not all downtown hotels have guest parking, and those that do, charge premium prices for this "privilege". Remember, parking is a privilege, not a right in San Francisco.
Public transportation in San Francisco ranges from "good" to "seen better days". On the good end is BART, the underground train system which runs along Market Street and serves the downtown area. All BART stations are accessible by elevator, but local residents do complain of frequent elevator break downs. BART trains have roll-on accessibility, but depending on the station there may be a gap between the platform and the train. The best strategy for wheelers is to back on to the train. BART accessibility information can be found on their website at www.bart.org/riding/access/index.htm. Additionally, San Francisco Muni operates a bus and train system. Bonnie reports the trains are nicely accessible with an insert that closes the gap between the train and the platform. Personally I wouldn't recommend riding the bus. Although most buses are accessible, they are crowded and the lifts have a tendency to break down. More information about Muni accessibility can be found on their website at www.ci.sf.ca.us/muni/abaccess.htm, or call their Accessible Services Program at 415-923-6142 for a copy of their free "Muni Access Guide". Another option is to call a taxi. Yellow Taxi (415-626-2345), Luxor Taxi (415-206-7715) and Town Taxi (415-282-4821) all have ramped minivan taxis, which can accommodate 2 wheelchairs. Coming later this year, there will also be an accessible trolley running up and down the Embarcadero. All stops will be accessible via raised boarding platforms.
Generally speaking, San Francisco is a pedestrian friendly place, and the best way to really enjoy it is by walking or rolling around the city. Curb cuts are plentiful, and the sidewalks are usually unobstructed. A word of caution though; keep an eye out at crosswalks, as San Francisco drivers do have a tendency to roll right through red lights. As for the hills, well as long as you use public transportation to get from one area to the next, they shouldn't be a problem. It's pretty easy to get around in most of the tourist areas in San Francisco, with the exception of Nob Hill. Nob Hill is one of the steeper sections of town, and pretty dangerous to navigate in a wheelchair. My suggestion is to take a taxi up to the Fairmont Hotel, have dinner and then see the area on the taxi ride back.
The San Francisco Convention and Visitors Bureau has a couple of excellent publications to help you find your way around town. "The San Francisco Bike Map and Walking Guide" is a great resource, as this map shows the grade of all the streets in the city. It costs $2.65, but it's very helpful for planning your walking or rolling route through the city. Another helpful publication is "San Francisco Walking Tours", a free brochure detailing walking tours and points of interest in North Beach, Fisherman's Wharf, Union Square and Chinatown. This brochure does not address accessibility, but it can be used in conjunction with "The San Francisco Bike Map and Walking Guide" to plan your own self-guided tours of the city. Both publications are available at the Convention and Visitors Bureau Visitors Information Center, located on the lower level of Hallidie Plaza at 900 Market Street.
Of course, you have to make some choices and decisions when visiting San Francisco, as it's literally impossible to see everything. Alcatraz Island was at the top of my list, so that was our first stop. The only way over to the island is on the Blue and Gold ferry, which departs from Pier 41. The number of visitors to Alcatraz is limited to 300 per day, so advance reservations are a must (415-705-5555). Although all of Blue and Gold boats are accessible, some are better than others. On our ride over to the island we were on an older boat, and Bonnie had some problems getting over the threshold in her power chair. The ride back was a piece of cake, as we were on a new boat with roll-on accessibility. The ride only takes about 15 minutes, but take note that the on-board restrooms are not accessible. Plan ahead.
The famous cell block is located at the top of Alcatraz Island. Able-bodied visitors can walk up, but anybody who cannot manage the 12% grade is welcome to ride SEAT, a wheelchair accessible tram, which departs from the dock area at 40 minutes past each hour. Once we were at the top of the island, the self-guided cell block tour was pretty accessible. It was also fascinating. Alcatraz is an old site, with uneven concrete here and there, and a few tight spots; but, generally speaking they did a good job of providing access. Actually they did a very good job, considering that their prior access was a "virtual tour" (movie) at the bottom of the island.
Back on the mainland, we were famished, so our next order of business was lunch. There's no shortage of places to eat on Fisherman's Wharf, and of course I do have my old favorites. Aliotto's is my all time favorite. They serve great seafood, have a beautiful view of the bay, and are accessible by elevator. For a cheaper option, (less atmosphere, but same great food) try their downstairs crab stand. Across the street is another favorite; the Boudin Bakery, which serves up steaming clam chowder in sourdough bread bowls. Our choice for the day was new to me; the Franciscan, located at pier 43 1/2 and accessible by elevator. After stuffing myself on swordfish and risotto, my only disappointment was that I didn't have any room for dessert.
Our next stop was Union Square. We took a taxi up there, in order to avoid the hills. Union Square is the place to be if you want to go shopping or book a tour. Half price performance-day theater tickets are also available at the Tix Bay Area kiosk, located on the Stockton side of Union Square. The Visitors Information Center, which is located downstairs (elevator on Market, near Mason) was our destination. Now, generally speaking I'm pretty skeptical about visitors bureaus. Let's just say I've run into more than one visitors bureau employee who was indifferent or ignorant about access issues. Fortunately, this was not the case at the San Francisco Visitors Information Center. The San Francisco Visitors Information Center has the requisite free maps and brochures; but, more importantly the employees have a good attitude, and at least understand some access issues. In other words they don't just flippantly proclaim that everything in their great city is accessible. Bonnie later told me she has been training the staff on accessibility. The training shows. They may not have all the answers, but they have a good attitude.
San Francisco is a fun city to explore on your own; but, if you would rather join a tour, there are a few accessible options. Gray Line Tours (415-558-7300) has limited access, as they have a lift-equipped bus which can accommodate wheelchairs (not scooters). Additionally, our taxi driver (415-546-1616) told us he gives tours in his ramped minivan taxi. It's a bit expensive at $60/hour, but the price can be split between 4-5 people. The San Francisco Library also presents a number of free walking (rolling) tours, many of which are accessible. Pick up their free brochure at the Visitors Information Center, or call 415-557-4266 for recorded information.
As for lodgings, well location is king in this city. Yes, you will pay more for a room located in the city center; but, the time and money you save by not commuting will make it well worth your while. So, bite the bullet and stay in the city. Bonnie's recommendations for both location and accessibility are: Holiday Inn Fisherman's Wharf (415-771-9000), Hyatt Fisherman's Wharf (415-563-1234), Westin St. Francis Union Square (415-397-7000), and the Handlery Union Square (415-781-7800). Expect to pay $150-$300 for a room in the city.
After wheeling around the city for 3 years, ferreting out access details, Bonnie has plenty of advice for would-be tourists. Her best tip? "Don't let a few hills discourage you from visiting San Francisco. Plan ahead, do your research and find out about the work-arounds". So, pack your bags and head to the city by the bay, and don't leave home without your copy of "Access 2000 San Francisco"!
Resources
"Access 2000 San Francisco"
Published by Access Northern CA, this free guide contains access information about San Francisco hotels, restaurants, transportation, and tourist attractions. Call The San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau, phone (415)391-2000 for your copy, or pick one up at the Visitors Information Center at 900 Market St.
Access Northern CA
Access Northern CA's website includes the on-line version of the San Francisco Access Guide, plus updated access information about San Francisco and the rest of Northern CA. AccessNCA.com
Emerging Horizons
Your on-line source for worldwide accessible travel information and resources. EmergingHorizons.com
